NOTES: Had to take Jesse to Puzzle Palace. A little bit of a repeater for me, but, I liked it.
CLIMBING SETUP: I brought all 3 of my ropes plus Jesse’s red rope for 3 setups.
1. The white static line on the bolts with the red coredelette as an anchor.
2. The green dynamic line on Diagon Alley with the blue static as an anchor.
3. Jesse’s rope on Platform 9 3/4 with some sketchy grey slings as an anchor. Need to rethink this one. Something longer is defintiely needed as it drags on the edge A LOT.
QUICK CLIMB SUMMARY:
Diagon Alley - (same as 01/29) Trust chimney smears. Use high feet on smears. Don’t get left foot stuck in top left corner of chimney, very hard switch.
The Handle - (same as 01/29) A bit easier than 5.9, bottom is trickiest, get right foot high early, use big pinch block. Underclings from there.
Platform 9 3/4 - This rated a 5.8 but it’s pretty tricky at least the first time. A little easier on the second go. Probably a 9. (and three quarters). More Beta below.
Significant holds on Platform 9 3/4.
Getting up to the #1 arrow is pretty easy. The first cruxy move is getting your left foot on #1 then raising your right foot to #2 while holding the #3 arete. Once standing again, getting your right foot onto #4 ends the first crux section. Once up there do some small moves until you can reach out to a huge sidepull #5 which gives you access to the BUCKET of a jug #6. Use this just and a toe/heel hook in the corner to get out onto the face and into the last crux area. Raise your right foot into the bucket jug #6 and make a big move to the ledge #7. Easy from there.