NOTES: Was 55 degrees in the forecast. Got to the base of Betty by about 8am. Was pretty windy and a bit chilly. Jesse and I both brought a full rack which was completely unnecessary. I laid out all ropes and racks in the trunk and we just took what we needed to each crag. Worked out fine. Before heading out next time review how to extend alpines and how to reassemble them.
CLIMBING SETUP: GUNKS. We brought Jesse’s rack, my TC rope, 2 Rocky Talkies. I used my Gigajoule for the first time which worked out great for belay, guide and rappel. Don’t forget them belay-ggles.
CLIMBING SETUP: PETERSKILL. Used Jesse’s red rope. I brough both of my statics and my red pretied quad. Used my new two bulletproof biners. They were great. I brought my rack but didn’t use it.
CLOTHING: Wore my newer tighter stretch jeans and it was good. I had on a dark grey T-Shirt with my running zip-up over. Kept the zip-up on the whole time except for climbing Three Pines. TC Pro shoes.
QUICK CLIMB SUMMARY:
Betty 5.3 - Definitely lead in one continuous pitch. Take a note of the cams used listed below. Place less gear, extend everything, move faster, it ain’t so bad.
Three Pines 5.3 - Jesse led the first two pitches in one push. THIS is my next project. It’s steep, there are a couple hairy parts, but it goes!
Windy City- 5.8- - A pretty tough couple of opening moves and a harder move towards the ‘buldge’ but pretty easy overall.
Bolt Line - 5.8 - Very balancy bottom, but once you hit the first crack it gets pretty easy.
BETTY - 5.3 - Lead
- Was pretty tight on the first pitch, moving rather slowly.
-Definitely review videos on the crux areas.
CAMS - 0.3 (x1), 0.5 (1 or 2), 0.75 (0 or 1), #1 (x3), #2 (x2), 8 Alpine Draws, 2 Double Length extensions.
Pitch1
-0.3 about 8 or 10 feet up. This one is not necessary, but bring it anyway.
- #1 right before the crux move.
- sling on the tree
- #1 the one that Jesse said it wasn't good
- #2 under the boulder
BELAY LEDGE - If building anchor, 2x 0.5s, 1x 0.75 otherwise , just 0.5 super extend
Pitch 2
-Piton clip, alpine draw
- #1
- tree clip, super extend
-#2
-find one more piece, it's a bit runout at the top.
Three Pines 5.3
Jesse led both pitches as one. I will definitely be doing this as my next big lead. There are 3 hairy spots, but it's perfect for getting into that scary headspace while still having bomber holds and super secure climbing. The first hairy spot is coming off the first ledge onto the 2nd. It's a big move, completely unprotected, but it's doable. The next move is about 10 feet above that, this is probably the hardest spot. The last is in the corner you think of when you think of Three Pines. Take a full rack, take your time. It's going to be really fucking scary, but it's good.
PETERSKILL - Windy City 5.8-
Great climb, hardest part is at the bottom, 2nd hardest at the bulge. Once you get over that first roof it's pretty easy. The bulge offers a bit of a balancy push up. Hung a few times on the first go, made it straight through on the 2nd go.
PETERSKILL- Bolt Line 5.8
Super balancy hard start. Very small hands, all feet. Once you get a couple moves above the bolt hanger it gets pretty easy. The crux for the people climbing before us was at the bulge, but I found it to be pretty easy if you can commit to double foot stack in the crack.